Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Classic (ish) Louie Dressing

1 gallon mayonnaise
3 cups chili sauce
1 ½ cups minced scallion
1 ½ cups minced cubanelle pepper
¾ cup lemon juice
25 shakes tabasco

-combine everything thoroughly.

Three Orange Vinaigrettes

Orange Vinaigrette #1

juice of 6 oranges
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup honey
2 Tbsp sherry vinegar
2 Tbsp dijon mustard
1 Tbsp salt
1 red onion, chopped
4 plum tomatoes, seeded
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups xv olive oil
1/2 cup hazelnut oil

- combine all ingredients in blender and puree thoroughly

Note: This is very good with lobster meat.

Orange Vinaigrette #2

juice of 8 oranges
2 cups champagne vinegar
1 cup honey
1 cup dijon mustard
1/4 cup salt
1/2 tsp pepper
7 cups xv olive oil

- blend first 6 ingredients
- with machine running, drizzle in oil

Orange Vinaigrette #3

juice of 8 oranges
1 cup xv olive oil
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp superfine sugar
1/8 tsp pepper

- whisk together all ingredients

Spice Marinade for Grilled Tuna, Late March, 2009

1/2 cup canola oil
1 onion, sliced
4 cloves garlic
1 Tbsp salt

1/2 cup pimenton dulce
3 Tbsp black cumin seed
1 Tbsp chile flakes
1 Tbsp dry mustard
1 tsp celery seed
1/2 tsp allspice
1/4 tsp cinnamon

1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup honey
1/3 cup ketchup

canola oil as needed (about 2 qts)

- cook onions, garlic and salt in oil over low heat until soft and light brown
- add dry spices and cook this sludge 5 minutes
- add liquids and cook an additional 5 minutes, stirring often
- remove from heat and blend in canola oil to yield 3 quarts

Saturday, March 28, 2009

Chicago Line Cook Salsa

Salsa Roja

14 plum tomatoes
2 jalapenos
1 onion, sliced
1 tsp salt
2 tsp vegetable oil
juice of 1/2 lemon
1Tbsp sugar
salt and pepper to taste

- toss vegetables with 1 tsp salt and 2 tsp vegetable oil
- grill slowly until skins char and flesh softens
- remove to metal container and cover with plastic; allow to cool
- blend with remaining ingredients and season to taste

Salsa Campechana

For Campeche Style Shellfish Cocktail

2 qts tomato juice
1 ½ qts water
1 ½ qts seviche dressing (below)
1 qt heinz chili sauce
4 red onions, sliced thin
4 avocados, small chunks
4 ribs celery, sliced thin
1 bunch scallions, white only, sliced thin
1 cup cilantro leaves

- combine first 4 ingredients
- add remaining ingredients

Seviche Dressing

2 qts orange juice
2 qts lime juice
1 ½ qts lemon juice
1 qt honey
2 cups cider vinegar
1/3 cup kosher salt

- combine all thoroughly

Savory BBQ Horseradish Flan

makes 48

BBQ Glaze
1/2 cup apple cider
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1 tsp worcestershire sauce
1# brown sugar
1 tsp pimenton dulce
1 tsp black cumin
1 tsp salt

- combine all ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan and reduce to thick syrup
- pour 1 Tbsp syrup each into the bottom of 48 greased demitasse cups
- chill and set aside

Custard
2 qts heavy cream
16 ea whole eggs
16 ea egg yolks
3 cups prepared horseradish
2 Tbsp salt
2 tsp white pepper

- combine all ingredients with immersion blender
- pour 2 ounces custard mixture each over chilled syrup in demitasse cups
- bake covered in water bath at 250 degrees until set; begin checking at 35 minutes and remove as each has finished cooking

To Serve: Warm demitasse cup from the bottom and invert onto plate.

Gorditas a la Jota

8 cups maseca
2 cups flour
1 cup whipped sea salt butter
2 Tbsp pimenton dulce
1 Tbsp salt
3 cups hot water

- using las manos combine all ingredients thoroughly. the dough will seem slightly dry
- form into balls and press down with greased meat pounder to 1/4" thickness (this is for decorative and functional surface pattern - it is not necessary
- deep fry in hot oil until floating for 15 seconds

Bell Pepper Confit

10 ea red bell peppers
10 ea yellow bell peppers
5 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
3/4 cup xv olive oil
2 Tbsp salt

1/2 cup raw sugar
1/4 cup banyuls vinegar

- peel and seed peppers by preferred method - do not cook
- grind peppers on smallest die and strain and reserve juice
- lightly brown garlic in olive oil in large braising pan
- add ground peppers and salt. cook over low heat, stirring often for 1 hour
- meanwhile combine reserved juice, sugar and vinegar in nonreactive saucepan
- simmer until reduced by two-thirds (about a cup)
- add juice reduction to pepper mixture; continue to cook 30 minutes over low heat

Carrot-Almond Puree

2# carrots, peeled and rough chopped
2 ea english cucumbers, peeled and rough chopped
2 1/2 cups raw marcona almonds
3 Tbsp salt
1 Tbsp microplaned ginger
1/4 cup wildflower honey

- in VitaPrep puree carrots and cucumbers thoroughly
- add remaining ingredients and puree until smooth
- apologize to your blender for the workout and buy it a beer

to serve (for scallop dish): warm 2 ounces puree and mount with 2 Tbsp butter.

Thursday, March 26, 2009

2 More Chinese Inspired Sauces that Both Contain Ketchup and which are Both Delish When Mounted with Butter (optional)

Hot & Sour Sauce

1 lb ginger, sliced
1 large onion, sliced
2 oz whole garlic cloves
stems from 1 bunch cilantro
¼ cup canola oil
3 Tbsp white pepper
1 ½ cup unsweetened rice vinegar
1 ½ cup soy sauce
1 bottle ketchup
1 cup sesame oil
1 gal chicken stock
¼ cup cornstarch dissolved in ¼ cup cold water

- sauté ginger, onion and garlic in canola oil over high heat until lightly browned, stirring often
- add white pepper and stir 1 minute
- add vinegar, soy sauce, ketchup and sesame oil and stir often for 5 minutes
- add chicken stock and bring to a simmer; simmer 10 minutes
- add cornstarch slurry, thicken and strain


House Special Sauce

Ingredients:

½ cup canola oil
2 cups minced ginger
2 cups minced garlic
1 bag wood-ear mushrooms (reconstituted and pulsed in robot coup)
2 quarts turkey stock
1 quart soy sauce
1 bottle ketchup
½ bottle oyster sauce
½ cup sambal
2 cup cornstarch made into a slurry w/ 2 cups water

Procedure:
Heat a rondeau over high heat. Add oil and heat until smoking. Add ginger and garlic and stir-fry until aromatic. Add mushrooms and stir-fry until the excess water has been driven off. Add stock and bottled sauces and bring to a boil. Reduce for 5 minutes. Add cornstarch slurry and return to a boil.

Four Scaled Down, Simple Provencale Recipes

Lamb Shanks

1 case lamb shanks
salt and pepper
oil as needed
3 qts mirepoix
2 cups garlic cloves
1 1/2 cups tomato paste
1.5 liters red wine
1 bunch rosemary
1 bunch thyme
2 gallons chicken stock

- season lamb shanks with salt and pepper and sear in oil on all sides
- remove from pan and add mirepoix and garlic cloves; caramelize
- add tomato paste and caramelizdeglaze with red wine; add thyme and rosemary; reduce until thick
- return lamb shanks to pan and cover with chicken stock; bring to simmer
- cover and braise in 325 oven until tender - about 2 hours
- cool in liquid, remove and wrap individually in plastic wrap; strain and reserve liquid


Soupe au Pistou

1 cup xv olive oil
1/2# butter
10 ea zucchini, seeded and diced
10 ea leeks, diced and cleaned
10 ea carrots, peeled and diced
10 ea onions, peeled and diced
20 ea celery stalks, diced
1/3 cup chopped garlic
15 ea plum tomatoes, seeded and diced
3 qts shucked cranberry beans
10 ea potatoes, peeled and diced
3 gals water
1 large bouquet garni
salt and pepper to taste
2# tubettini, cooked
pistou as needed

- sweat first 8 ingredients until soft; season with salt and pepper
- add tomatoes, beans and potatoes; sweat briefly and season with salt and pepper
- add water and bouquet garni; simmer until all is well cooked and season again
- add pasta and check for seasoning; serve with pistou


Tapenade

4 cups olives, black or green or combination, pitted
1/2 cup capers, rinsed well
3 cloves garlic
15 anchovy fillets
1/2 bunch parsley, leaves picked
1 cup xv olive oil

- process first 5 ingredients in Robot Coupe to a smooth paste
- with machine running, drizzle in oil


Pistou

1# basil, leaves only
1/2# shaved (not grated) reggiano
2 Tbsp chopped garlic
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
6 cups xv olive oil

- process first 5 ingredients in Robot Coupe; add 1 cup olive oil and continue to process
- add remaining olive oil in a stream as machine is running
- allow to rest overnight; decant and reserve excess oil

Note: This method yields excess pistou flavored oil. If that is unnecessary, omit 5 cups oil and steps 2 and 3.

2 Chinese Inspired Recipes

Corn Pancakes

1 ½ cups boiling water

1 cup creamed corn
2 bunches scallions, sliced
2 ea poblanos, chopped
4 Tbsp salt
4 cups plus 1 cup Wondra

- process corn, scallions and poblanos in robot coupe.
- add corn mix and salt to 4 cups Wondra.
- add boiling water to mix and bring together with a fork.
- remove to floured counter and knead in remaining cup flour. The dough will be sticky but workable.
- form into 1/4” thick rounds and place on a sheet dusted with cornstarch.
- pan or deep fry

Note: for scallion pancakes, omit corn and chiles and the food processor

Hong Shao Sauce
(this is great for braising pork belly!)

2# bacon, diced
2# onion, sliced
5 ea star anise pods
4 ea cinnamon sticks
4” ginger, sliced
¼ cup toasted garlic
1# brown sugar
6 oz wood ear mushrooms
12 qts chicken stock
1 cup soy sauce
¼ cup sambal

- brown bacon in rondeau
- add onion and cook until soft and beginning to caramelize
- add star anise, cinnamon and ginger and cook 3 minutes
- add garlic and cook 1 minute
- add brown sugar and mushrooms and cook 2 minutes
- add remaining ingredients and reduce almost to syrup
- strain through large hole china cap
- strain through chinois; reduce if necessary

Curried Brown Sugar Dip (great for a seventies theme party!)

½ cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup brown sugar
3 Tbsp curry powder
6 cups crème fraiche or sour cream
1 Tbsp kosher or sea salt

- In a small saucepan, bring vinegar, sugar and curry powder to a boil. Remove from heat
- Whisk together all ingredients until smooth.

Braised Fennel Marmalade

8 bulbs fennel, julienned
¼ cup whole garlic cloves
½ cup xv olive oil
leaves from 1/2 bunch thyme
3 Tbsp sugar
1 Tbsp salt
½ tsp black pepper
juice of 3 lemons
¾ cup white wine
2 cups chicken stock

- saute the fennel with the garlic and thyme in olive oil over high heat to brown
- season with sugar, salt and pepper; continue to saute until sugar caramelizes
- deglaze with lemon juice and reduce au sec
- add wine and reduce completely
- add chicken stock, reduce heat and braise until fennel is very tender - about 30 minutes

The key: You need to get the fennel nice and brown without burning before adding the seasoning and liquids. Each of the acidic liquids needs to be fully reduced before adding stock. Cover with parchment and braise in the oven if you want to conserve stove space.

Tzatziki Afros (Mousse)

5 cucumbers peeled and roughly chopped
10 cloves garlic peeled and bruised
1/2 lb dill
Juice of 7 lemons
A lotta salt
6 cups sour cream
Xanthan gum as needed

-puree cucumber, garlic, lemon juice, dill and salt in Vita-Prep
-divide puree in half
-blend half the cucumber mixture and half sour cream in Vita-Prep
-add gum bit by bit until the mixture just about seizes
-repeat with the rest of the cucumber mixture and sour cream

Tzatziki

1 qt organic whole milk yogurt
9# organic cucumbers
4 ea jalapenos, ribs and seeds discarded, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 bn scallions, white and light green only, sliced thin
¼ cup tightly packed shredded mint
2 Tbsp Kosher salt
2 tsp white pepper
2 cups sour cream
juice of 2 lemons

- 2 days prior: empty yogurt onto cheesecloth; gather up edges and tie with string to form a completely enclosed bundle; tie bundle to a wooden spoon or similar object and suspend over a sufficiently tall container; refrigerate for 2 days. The result should have the consistency of cream cheese.
- Cut cucumbers into large dice and thoroughly mince in food processor. Remove cucumber pulp to cheesecloth or tea towel, gather up sides and squeeze out as much moisture as possible. (This may be done in several batches.) The result should feel quite dry to the touch.
- Combine yogurt “cheese,” cucumber pulp and remaining ingredients in large bowl. Serve as a dip or try as a condiment with roasted lamb, salmon or tuna.

A Personal Favorite and not Complicated at All

Pan Bread

1 purchased fresh pizza dough (1lb)
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, sliced thin
leaves from 1 sprig thyme
½ tsp minced rosemary
generous sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
additional extra virgin olive oil as needed

- Toss all ingredients together in a large bowl.
- Roll or form the dough into approximately the shape and size of the base of a medium nonstick skillet.
- Heat the nonstick skillet over medium heat about 30 seconds; add dough and drizzle a small amount of additional olive oil around the circumference. Lower heat and cook about 5 minutes, checking occasionally that the garlic doesn’t burn.
- Flip and cook an additional 5 minutes, checking again for burning. Bread should be golden brown on both sides. Allow to rest 5 more minutes before serving.

Note: Feel free to make any changes – omit the garlic, substitute different herbs, etc.

Another Complicated Recipe from a Past Menu - This Time It's Delicious Brandt Beef and a Sea Rodent

Dry Aged, Prime Brandt Beef with Cabbage Bundles of Short Rib & Lobster, Salsify Ragoût and Lobster Jus


Beef

2 ½ lbs trimmed, dry aged, USDA prime Brandt striploin
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
leaves from a few sprigs of thyme
salt and black pepper

- Rub striploin with olive oil and thyme leaves. Allow to come to room temperature.
- Season liberally with salt and cracked pepper. Sear on all sides in hot pan and finish in oven to desired temperature.

Cabbage Bundles

Braised Short Ribs

2 lbs natural beef short ribs
salt and black pepper as needed
extra virgin olive oil as needed
2 shallots, small dice
1 carrot, small dice
1 rib celery, small dice
1 bulb garlic, halved
few sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
½ pod star anise
2 cups red wine
2 cups veal stock
2 cups chicken stock, plus additional if necessary

- Season short ribs with salt and pepper. In extra virgin olive oil as needed, sear on all sides in a suitable pan for braising.
- Remove from pan and add vegetables, stirring to brown slightly.
- Deglaze with red wine and return short ribs to pan.
- Add dry spices and stocks; bring to a simmer.
- Cover with parchment and braise in 325 degree over for 2 ½ hours.
- Allow to cool in braising liquid before removing and straining liquid.
- Reduce braising liquid to 1 cup and reserve.



Short Rib Mixture

1 Tbsp carrot brunoise
1 Tbsp celery root brunoise
1 Tbsp parsnip brunoise
1 Tbsp leek brunoise
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
salt and black pepper as needed
1 Tbsp concasse from slow roasted tomatoes
pulled meat from braised short ribs
½ cup reduced braising liquid
1 Tbsp minced parsley

- Over high heat quickly sear carrot, celery root, parsnip and leek in extra virgin olive oil, tossing about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper.
- Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl. Adjust seasoning as needed and set aside.

Lobster Mixture

3/4 cup chopped lobster knuckle meat
2 Tbsp granny smith apple brunoise
2 tsp minced chervil
1 tsp minced tarragon
1 tsp minced chives
pinch curry powder
2 Tbsp lobster glace
1 Tbsp melted butter
2 tsp icewine vinegar
salt and black pepper as needed

- combine all ingredients, seasoning to taste

Assembly

8 leaves savoy cabbage, blanched and stems trimmed
short rib and lobster mixtures

- Divide short rib mixture between 4 leaves cabbage. Roll like a spring roll
- Repeat with lobster mixture and remaining cabbage leaves.






Salsify Ragoût

¾ cup salsify brunoise
2 cloves garlic, brunoise
1 shallot, brunoise
½ cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp white wine
1 bay leaf
salt to taste
1 Tbsp whipped cream, seasoned with white pepper

- Combine salsify, garlic, shallot, cream, wine and bay leaf in heavy saucepan over low heat. Slowly cook until salsify is tender.
- Remove bay leaf, season with salt and fold in whipped cream.

Lobster Jus

4 lobster bodies, cleaned of shells and brain sacs, chopped
grapeseed oil as needed
½ carrot, small dice
2 shallots, small dice
2 tsp tomato paste
1 sprig tarragon
1 tsp coriander seed
½ pod star anise
2 Tbsp tawny port
1 Tbsp cognac
1 ½ cups chicken stock
½ cup reserved short rib braising liquid
2 Tbsp butter

- In a heavy saucepan over high heat, sear lobster bodies in grapeseed oil, tossing to brown evenly.
- Add carrot and shallots and toss briefly.
- Add tomato paste and cook 1 minute.
- Add tarragon and spices; deglaze with port and brandy.
- Add stock and braising liquid. Bring to simmer and cook until liquid is reduced to 3/4 cup.
- Strain and swirl in butter.

Assembly

- Heat bundles in a Chinese basket steamer – place one of each in the center of each plate.
- Top with fanned, sliced striploin
- Pool sauce around and finish with dabs of salsify ragout. Garnish with chervil.

A Complicated Recipe from a Past Menu with a Bird and a Fish

Herb Crusted Rare Tuna with Seared Squab, Porcini Mushrooms,
Heirloom Corn Grit Waffle and Parsley Oil

Tuna

4ea 4oz bigeye tuna portions
2 Tbsp minced chervil
2 Tbsp minced chives
1 Tbsp minced tarragon
2 Tbsp parsley oil
salt and black pepper as needed

- Season tuna with salt and pepper
- Rub tuna portions with parsley oil and cover each with mixed herbs
- In a heavy skillet over high heat, sear tuna portions on all sides
- Remove from pan and slice each into 5 slices when needed

Squab

4 each squab breast portions
1 shallot minced
1 tsp minced rosemary
1 tsp minced parsley
1/8 tsp ground Szechwan peppercorns
1/8 tsp cracked coriander seeds
pinch ground juniper
pinch ground star anise
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
salt and black pepper as needed

- Combine shallot, herbs and dry spices (minus salt and pepper) with 1 Tbsp olive oil. Rub squab portions with this mixture and allow to rest 4 hours.
- Season squab portions with salt and pepper and sear in additional olive oil in hot skillet; cook to desired temperature.

Porcini Mushrooms

1 lb porcini mushrooms, sliced ¼” thick
3 cloves garlic, sliced thin
extra virgin olive oil as needed
2 tsp minced chervil
2 tsp minced chives
salt and cracked white pepper as needed
1 cup dark squab stock
2 Tbsp butter

- In a large hot skillet, sear the porcini in olive oil as needed; after 30 seconds add the sliced garlic
- When the porcini and garlic are uniformly golden brown, season with salt, cracked white pepper and the minced herbs.
- Add squab stock and quickly reduce by 60%. Swirl in butter.

Parsley Oil

1 bunch parsley, blanched, shocked and chopped
½ tsp salt
½ cup grapeseed oil

- In a small blender, process the parsley and salt with as little oil as needed to make a smooth paste.
- With the blender running, slowly drizzle in remaining oil.

Heirloom Corn Grit Waffle

1 cup heirloom corn grits, ground to coarse cornmeal consistency
1 cup flour
1 Tbsp sugar
4 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp white pepper
1 ¾ cups milk
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/3 cup melted butter
2 Tbsp minced chervil
2 Tbsp minced chives

- Combine dry ingredients; thoroughly combine liquid ingredients
- Combine wet and dry ingredients; stir in herbs
- With a waffle iron, make 4 waffles (there will be extra batter)

Assembly

- Arrange tuna slices in a pinwheel on one side of each of 4 platters. In the center of each pinwheel place a squab breast.
- On the other side of each platter place a waffle. Arrange porcini on top, allowing sauce to fill crevices.
- Dress tuna and squab with additional sauce. Drizzle parsley oil around.

An Appetizer from a Recent Menu Involving Beets

Roasted Beet Ravioli
Goat Cheese Fonduta, Spiced Pecans

Beet Filling

1 bunch small to medium beets, about 6 or 7, stems and tips removed
1 cup water
1 tsp autolyzed yeast extract (Vegemite™ or Better than Bouillon™)
1 tsp agar agar

1) Preheat oven to 400˚F. Wrap beets individually in aluminum foil and place on roasting rack (or half inch bed of salt) in a roasting pan. Roast until fork-tender – about 1 ½ hours. Remove and peel when cool enough to handle.
2) In a small saucepan, bring water, yeast extract and agar agar to a simmer, whisking to dissolve ingredients. Reduce by one-third and keep warm.
3) In a blender thoroughly purée beets and water mixture. Spread in a ¼” layer on any available plate and refrigerate 20 minutes. You will have stiff beet jelly.
4) In a food processor pulverize this chilled beet jelly and set aside. It will have a slightly granular consistency.

Beet Ravioli (about 60 pieces)

1 package “Shanghai-style” fresh dumpling wrappers (1 lb)
3 egg whites, whisked briefly
reserved beet filling
cornstarch as needed

1) Place 4 dumpling wrappers on work surface and lightly brush each with egg whites.
2) Place a small dollop of beet filling – about 1 ½ tsp – in the center of each.
3) Lay a second dumpling wrapper over each and gently press around the center the center, working in a circular motion, to press out air and seal the ravioli. If you have an appropriate size cup to press the ravioli and seal in the filling, this makes a handy convenience.
4) Cut ravioli into desired size if desired and repeat process.
5) Lightly dust another surface (sheet pan?) with cornstarch and keep finished ravioli on this until ready to cook.

*** These ravioli can be boiled in salted water 2 minutes and served, or cooked potsticker-style. To do this, heat a nonstick pan over medium heat; add 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil and add ravioli. Cook until lightly browned, add ¼ cup water and cover; lower heat and cook 2 minutes, then remove and serve.

Goat Cheese Fonduta

1 cup half & half
2 cloves garlic, bruised
1 sprig rosemary
pinch fresh grated nutmeg
½ cup fresh goat cheese
salt and white pepper to taste

1) Over low heat, bring first four ingredients to a slow simmer and cook 10 minutes, stirring often
2) Stir in goat cheese and taste for seasoning, Strain though chinois or sieve and serve.

Spiced Pecans

5 lbs pecan halves or pieces
1 ½ cups brown sugar
3 Tbsp coarse sea salt
1 Tbsp pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika)
1 Tbsp pepperoncino (Italian hot pepper flake mix) or crushed red pepper
1 tsp cinnamon
5 egg whites whipped to stiff peaks

1) Preheat oven to 325˚
2) In a large bowl thoroughly toss pecans with dry ingredients.
3) Using hands, work in egg whites to uniformly coat the nuts.
4) In a single layer (and maybe several stages) bake the nuts on a jelly roll pan or cookie sheet for 12 minutes.
5) Allow to cool, break apart if stuck together and store at room temperature.

*** This recipe makes quite a bit, but you’ll want these around for snacking or entertaining. They keep indefinitely.

Chilled Melon Soup

I like to serve this with crispy prosciutto.

3 honeydew melons, peeled, seeded & chopped
1/2 bn cilantro
1/2 bn mint
1/2 bn basil
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup salt
juice of 3 limes
3 qts cucumber juice

- combine dry ingredients and macerate 1 hour
- add juices and puree until smooth

Gluten Free Clam Chowder

This chowder distinguishes itself among the many, many in Boston
by never having won any awards.


8 qts heavy cream
8 cans clam juice
16 bay leaves
6 qts. diced red potatoes
1 ½ cups kuzu root starch dissolved in 3 cups water

- Bring clam juice to a simmer, add potatoes and cook until soft.
- Add cream and return to simmer.
- Whisk in slurry and simmer to desired consistency. Remove bay leaves.
- Stir in chowder guts.


Chowder Guts

4 cups small dice onion
4 cups small dice celery
4 cups small dice leeks, white and light green only
8 cloves garlic, smashed and minced
2 Tbsp dried thyme
2 Tbsp salt
2 tsp pimenton

- Combine all ingredients and set aside 1 hour.

4 cups small dice bacon
1 ½ cups sherry

- Render bacon in heavy pan until browned.
- Add vegetable mix and cook until soft.
- Add sherry and reduce until thick.
- Add these chowder guts to thickened cream mixture.
- Add potato to chowder and taste for seasoning.

Braised Artichokes

¼ cup xv olive oil

12 turned artichoke bottoms, kept in acidulated water

6 garlic cloves, bruised

¼ bunch thyme

juice of 1 lemon

2 Tbsp sherry vinegar

½ cup white wine

1 Tbsp sugar

2 Tbsp butter

6 cups chicken stock

salt and pepper as needed

- season and saute artichoke bottoms, garlic and thyme in olive oil until lightly browned on all sides

- deglaze with lemon juice and sherry vinegar; reduce until dry

- add wine and sugar and reduce by half

- add chicken stock and bring to simmer; add butter

- cover and braise for 25 minutes; allow to cool in liquid

- strain and reserve liquid

Lobster Stock

20# lobster bodies, all shells and brain sacs discarded, split
vegetable oil as needed
2 ea large carrots, peeled, medium dice
1 bunch celery, medium dice
2 ea onions, peeled, medium dice
½ cup garlic cloves
¾ cup tomato paste
3 cups tawny port or sherry
2 cups brandy
3 bay leaves
1 Tbsp coriander seed
1 tsp star anise
½ bunch thyme
½ bunch tarragon
4 gals cold chicken stock

- in very large rondeau or roasting pan brown the lobster bodies in the oil
- add the vegetables and brown slightly
- add the tomato paste and cook until it assumes a bronze color
- deglaze with the port or sherry and brandy
- add dry spices and reduce until almost dry
- add herbs and chicken stock and simmer until reduced to 2 1/2 gallons - about 2 hours, transfering to another pot if necessary

The key: make sure that the lobster bodies are well browned but not at all burned. Same goes for the veggies and tomato paste. Make sure after the addition of the booze that it reduces fully. If the stock reduces too quickly, add water. Do not overdo the star anise. Strain thoroughly through mesh or cheesecloth.

Some variations: the addition of ginger, saffron, fresh fennel, leeks etc is welcome, but consider the overall balance: add fennel and you reduce the star anise; add ginger and remove the tarragon, etc.

The Sauce for Chilled Lobster

Remoulade

6 cups mayonnaise
1 cup dijon mustard
¼ cup rice vinegar
1 ea red onion, peeled and chopped
½ cup capers with brine
2 bunch tarragon
1 bunch watercress
2 Tbsp chopped anchovy
1 tsp salt
½ tsp pepper

- process all ingredients in blender until smooth.

Our Oyster Mignonettes

Carrot Mignonette

3 ea large carrots, peeled and rough chopped

8 ea shallots, rough chopped

3 qts red wine vinegar

2 cups soy sauce

1 cup mirin

¼ cup black pepper

- process carrots and shallots in Robot Coupe; remove to storage container

- add liquid ingredients and pepper; stir to combine

The key: Do not add any liquid to carrots and shallots while processing.


Cucumber Mignonette

4 ea english cucumbers

1 bunch mint, leaves picked

1 bunch scallions, sliced

½ bunch cilantro, chopped

1 liter seasoned rice vinegar

juice of 1 lemon

1 tsp salt

1 tsp black pepper

- process cucumbers, mint, scallions and cilantro in Robot Coupe until consistently minced; remove to storage container

- add vinegar, lemon juice, salt and pepper; stir to combine

The key: Do not add any liquid to cucumbers while processing. If there is no seasoned rice vinegar available, substitute 1 cup mirin for 1 cup vinegar.


Adobo Sauce

1 cup vegetable oil
3 onions, diced
1/4 cup sesame seeds
1 Tbsp cinnamon
2 tsp dried oregano
2 tsp ground ginger
2 tsp allspice
1 tsp curry powder
1 cup white wine
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
2 cans plum tomatoes
1/2 can chipotles
salt and pepper to taste

- brown onions in oil
- add spices; cook out raw flavor without burning
- deglaze with liquids and reduce to a paste
- add tomatoes and chipotles and simmer to sauce consistency
- puree and strain; season to taste

Note: To turn this into a very yummy bbq sauce, add 2 lbs brown sugar.

Pipian Verde

1 head romaine lettuce, chopped
16 ea tomatillos, quartered
4 cloves garlic
2 onions, chopped
2 bn cilantro, chopped
2 tsp cumin
4 jalapenos, chopped
1 cup water

- blend all ingredients and set aside

4 cups pumpkinseeds, ground thoroughly
½ cup peanuts, ground thoroughly
6 cups hot chicken stock
2 cups duck fat

- heat duckfat over medium flame and add the above reserved puree, stirring constantly for 6 minutes.
- add nuts and stir until smooth.
- stir in hot chicken stock until smooth, bring to boil and remove from heat.

Otis Street Steak Sauce

¼ cup unsalted butter
1 medium onion, sliced thin
6 cloves garlic, sliced thin
1 pint beef broth
1 cup dark corn syrup
1 cup red wine
¼ cup red wine vinegar
¼ cup molasses
2 cups tomato paste
1 Tbsp kosher salt
1 tsp dry mustard
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp black pepper
¼ tsp ground cloves

- Over low to medium heat, saut̩ the onions and garlic in the butter until soft Рabout 10 minutes
- Whisk together remaining ingredients in a large bowl. Add to onion mixture.
- Cook over low heat until it has a ketchup-like consistency, stirring often to prevent burning. Allow to cool.
- Puree in a blender and pass through a mesh strainer (chinois.)

Macaroni & Cheese

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 lb high quality smoked bacon, cut into lardoons

1 cup flour

1 cup white wine

4 qts heavy cream, hot

2 lb aged Vermont cheddar, such as Shelbourne Farms, grated

2 lb parmigiano reggiano

2 cups crumbled stilton or other blue cheese

salt and pepper to taste

- over low to medium heat, render the bacon lardoons in the olive oil until crispy.

- remove bacon and reserve. Add flour to olive oil/bacon fat mixture and whisk thoroughly to combine.

- cook, whisking often, 5 minutes.

- add wine, all at once, whisking constantly for 1 minute.

- add hot cream and whisk to thoroughly combine all ingredients.

- add cheeses, one at a time, stirring after each addition until fully incorporated.

- season to taste with salt and pepper.

Chimichurri (Blender Style)

4 bunches flat leaf parsley, washed

½ cup loosely packed oregano leaves

½ cup rough-chopped garlic chives

2 cloves garlic

1 ½ tsp salt

½ tsp chile flakes

2 Tbsp red wine vinegar

juice of 1 lemon

1 cup extra virgin olive oil, or more if desired

- Trim and discard the mostly leafless stem ends of the parsley, and rough-chop the remainder.

- Combine all ingredients in a blender and process until smooth, stopping to rearrange the content as necessary.

Smoked Salmon Kibbeh

1 side cold-smoked salmon, chopped (about 2 lbs)
1 red onion, small dice
1 bunch scallions, sliced thin
1 bunch chervil, minced
1 bunch dill, minced
1 ½ cups cooked bulghur wheat
1 Tbsp toasted sesame seeds
1 Tbsp toasted cumin
juice of ½ lemon

- process salmon, onion and scallion in the robot coupe until finely minced
- fold in remaining ingredients and form around skewers.
-pan fry in vegetable oil, but leave rare

A Really Good Marinade

1 onion, minced

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 bunch rosemary, minced

1/2 bunch parsley, minced

1 Tbsp szechuan peppercorns, ground

1 tsp coriander seed, ground

1 pod star anise, ground

4 ea juniper berries, ground

2 cups vegetable oil

- combine all ingredients and allow to rest at least 1 hour before use

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

A Couple of Fun Gazpacho-Based Dressings

Try as shellfish sauces or vinaigrettes for panzanella...


Gazpacho Vinaigrette

2 # plum tomatoes, lg dice

¾ # red pepper, lg dice

1 ea english cucumber, peeled and diced

3 ea shallots, minced

2 Tbsp sugar

2 Tbsp salt

¼ tsp black pepper

juice of 1 lime

¼ cup sherry vinegar

1 cup xv olive oil

- toss vegetables with salt, pepper and sugar; allow to rest 1 hour

- add liquids and marinate 1 hour more

- puree in Waring blender and strain through mesh chinois


Golden Gazpacho Vinaigrette

3/4# ripe golden tomatoes, diced

1 small vidalia onion, sliced

1 ½ tsp salt

1 tsp sugar

½ tsp pepper

1 Tbsp chopped chervil

1 tsp chopped tarragon

2 Tbsp sherry vinegar

½ cup xv olive oil

- combine all ingredients but the oil and vinegar in a stainless bowl - allow to rest 1 hour, tossing occasionally

- add vinegar and oil - allow to rest 1/2 hour, tossing occasionally

- transfer to a blender and process until smooth; strain

Cilantro Mousse

2 cubanelle peppers, rough chopped
1 english cucumber, rough chopped
1 bunch scallions, rough chopped
1 bunch cilantro, rough chopped
2 cups fully strained sheep's milk yogurt
2 Tbsp kosher salt
25 grinds on white pepper mill
xanthan gum as needed

- puree first four ingredients in Vita Prep until liquid.
- add yogurt, salt and pepper; puree until smooth.
- with blender running on highest speed, slowly sprinkle in xanthan gum until mixture almost seizes up.

A Chain of Asian Inspired Vinaigrettes

And there will be more to come.


Asian Vinaigrette #1

2 cups soy sauce

2 cups mirin

juice of 8 limes

1 cup chopped basil

1 cup chopped cilantro

½ cup chopped lemongrass

½ cup minced ginger

½ cup honey

½ cup sesame oil

¼ cup dijon mustard

- process thoroughly in blender


Asian Vinaigrette #2

3 cups soy sauce

1 ½ cups maple syrup

1 cup rice vinegar

1 cup sesame oil

juice of 10 limes

3 tbsp chile paste

4 cups roasted peanuts

2 bunches cilantro, rough chop

1/4 cup minced ginger

- puree all ingredients in Waring blender until completely smooth


Asian Vinaigrette #3

½ cup soy sauce

¼ cup honey

¼ cup rice vinegar

½ cup sesame oil

½ cup ginger oil

- whisk together all ingredients and keep in squeezebottles


Asian Vinaigrette #4

2 cups soy sauce

2 cups mustard oil

1 cup ketchup

½ tsp xanthan gun

- blend until smooth


Asian Vinaigrette v. 4.1

2 cups soy sauce

2 cups mustard oil

1 cup ketchup

1 cup mirin

½ cup sambal

¾ tsp xanthan gun

- blend until smooth


Asian Vinaigrette #5 (AKA Miso vinaigrette)

2 cups shiro miso

1 cup water

2 cups rice wine vinaiger

¼ cups canola oil

White pepper to taste

-whisk water into miso until smooth

-whisk in vinager

-slowly drizzle in oil while whisking

-season to taste