Stuffing for French Onion Dumplings: 11.06.09

3 lbs cooked meatloaf mixture
3 lbs grated gruyere
3 lbs caramelized onions

- combine thoroughly

Buckwheat Spaetzle for Halibut: 11.06.09

4 cups sour cream
12 eggs
1 Tbsp dijon mustard
2 Tbsp salt
1 tsp white pepper
3 1/2 cups flour
1 1/2 cups ground buckwheat

- combine all ingredients and push through a perforated hotel pan into another hotel pan of barely simmering water
- remove as they float to ice water and toss with vegetable oil to prevent sticking

Mushroom Mousse for Sashimi: 11.06.09

1 cup mushroom juice (from roasted mushrooms)
1 cup heavy cream
1 tsp agar agar

- bring juice and cream to a simmer; whisk in agar agar and cook on low heat 5 minutes
- strain through chinois into bowl inserted in ice bath
- whisk vigorously until cool and transfer to pastry bag

Herb Crust for Halibut: 11.06.09

4 cups semolina
1 lb chervil
mixed herb puree in oil

- thoroughly incorporate chervil into semolina in food processor
- remove and pass through tamis
- season halibut, brush with herb puree and dust with semolina crust - cook gently

Cherry Sauce for French Onion Dumplings: 11.06.09

2 Tbsp butter
5 cups peeled, parcooked pearl onions
3 cups strained brandied cherries
1 1/2 cups brandy from cherries

4 1/2 cups veal reduction
4 1/2 cups chicken stock

butter, salt and parsley as necessary

- gently saute the pearl onions in the butter until they begin to color
- add cherries and cherry brandy; flame and reduce by half
- add stocks and lightly simmer, skimming as needed, for 5 minutes
- to order, mount a 2oz ladle of this sauce with 2 Tbsp butter and 2 tsp chopped parsley

Dough for French Onion Dumplings: 11.06.09

9 cups Wondra flour plus additional as necessary
4 1/2 cups potato flakes
12 oz grated gruyere
1/4 cup salt
9 cups boiling water

- in robot coupe process first four ingredients; remove to mixing bowl
- add water to flour mixture and incorporate completely
- form balls, then patties of this dough using additional flour as necessary to keep from sticking

Pickled Mushrooms for Sashimi: 11.06.09

6 lbs tronpet royale mushrooms, trimmed and sliced 1/8"
3 qts red wine vinegar
1 qt soy sauce
1 qt caramelized onions
1 cup salt
1/2 cup dijon mustard
1/2 cup honey
2 bunches thyme
1 bunch basil
1 bunch tarragon

- bring vinegar and soy sauce to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and add remaining ingredients minus mushrooms
- simmer 10 minutes, strain and pour over mushrooms in a non-reactive container
- cover mushrooms with a plate to keep them submerged
- to serve toss mushrooms with olive oil and minced herbs

Tomato-Olive Stew for Scallops: 10.30.2009

1 cup olive oil
2 1/2 cups small diced red onion
1 cup small diced, peeled celery
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp salt
1/4 tsp rosenthal pepperoncino

- sweat above ingredients, covered, for 10 minutes

Add:

8 cups minced tomato pulp from pio angelini
4 qts strained fresh tomato juice

- bring to boil, lower heat and stew for 45 minutes
- stir in 3 Tbsp powdered gelatin bloomed in 12 ounces cold water
- remove from heat, allow to cool, then add:

1/2 cup agridulce cabernet vinegr
2 cups chopped taggiasche olives
1 cup basil chiffonade

Smoky Saffron Mousse for Scallops: 10.30.2009

1 cup amontillado sherry
4 shallots, sliced thin
4 cloves garlic, smashed
2 tsp saffron
1 tsp turmeric
1 qt cream
4 tsp salt
4 tsp smoked paprika
1 1/2 cups falconero olive oil
1/2 tsp xanthan gum
1/2 tsp agar agar

- reduce first 5 ingredients until almost completely dry
- add cream and bring to a simmer; reduce heat and cook 10 minutes
- remove to blender, add remaining ingredients bit by bit to emulsify; keep warm

Mushroom Spumante for Scallops: 10.16.2009

2 cups juice from roasted mushrooms
1 tsp organic truffle oil
1/2 tsp soy lecithin powder
1/4 tsp xanthan gum

- heat ingredients together gently until emulsified
- using immersion blender, make bubbles. Whoopee!

Fresh Corn 'Polenta' for Halibut: 10.16.2009

2 qts shredded corn and its milk
1/4 lb Plugra
1 Tbsp salt
1 Tbsp sweet smoked paprika

- melt butter over low heat and add remaining ingredients
- raise heat and stir very often for 12 minutes; cool

Pumpkinseed Sauce for Halibut: 10.16.2009

6 jalapeños, charred, peeled, seeded and ribs removed, diced
1 large onion, sliced thin
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cups roasted/salted pumpkin seeds
1 cup roasted garlic cloves
6 cups chicken stock
3 cups packed pea tendrils
salt and pepper to taste

- sweat jalapeños and onions in olive oil until onions are soft
- add pumpkin seeds and garlic cloves and stir to coat; saute 5 minutes
- add stock and bring to a rolling boil; boil 5 minutes
- remove from heat, add pea tendrils and puree thoroughly in blender

Truffle Tomolive Aioli for Sole: 10.02.09

2 cups Pio's tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 cup pitted taggiasche olives in oil
2 tbsp gremolata
1 tsp rinsed capers
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
fresh ground pepper
1 qt poached egg mayonnaise made with blanched lettuce, neutral oil and truffle oil

- process all ingredients but mayonnaise in robot coupe
- add mayonnaise and process until thoroughly blended

Caraway-Brown Butter Crumble for Scallops: 10.02.09

1/4 cup caraway seeds
2 Tbsp fine ground sel gris
1/2 tsp celery seed
1/2 lb Plugra
3 cups tapioca maltodextrin
1 cup fine ground panko

- grind caraway, salt and celery seed together
- dry-toast this mixture in a hot skillet for 1 minute, shaking often
- cut butter into five or six pieces and add to the caraway mixture in the skillet
- melt butter completely and continue to brown over medium-high heat five minutes
- strain through chinois into robot coupe
- with machine running pour in 2 cups maltodextrin and 1 cup panko
- remove from machine to a work bowl and using hands, incorporate remaining cup of maltodextrin
- chill completely and crumble into random small pieces

Deglaze for Scallops: 10.02.2009

1 1/2 gal water
750ml prosecco
1/2 cup banyuls vinegar
1 cup toasted onion
1 cup toasted garlic
1/2 cup sugar
1 bunch celery, chopped
1 handful thyme
1 handful rosemary
2 bay leaves

- combine all ingredients over medium-high heat and reduce by 1/3. Strain
- for scallops: sear on both sides, then deglaze with 2 oz liquid; reduce, mount with butter and glaze scallops
- remove to towels

Crabmeat Mousseline for Sole: 9.25.09

2 lbs scallops
4 eggs
2 1/2 oz chervil
1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp salt
2 cups cream
2 lbs crabmeat
fresh ground white pepper to taste

- in food processor puree scallops, eggs, chervil & salt
- with machine running drizzle in cream until fully incorporated
- remove to a mixing bowl and fold in crabmeat
- cook a small amount and taste; season with white pepper
- set aside to chill at least one hour

Lobster Butter for Hollandaise: 9.25.09

15 ea lobster bodies, carapaces removed and discarded, bodies chopped
4 oz oil
8 oz tawny port
6 oz cognac
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 tsp salt
2 pods star anise
8 lbs plugra

- in a heavy saucepan lightly brown the lobster bodies in the oil over medium high heat
- turn off heat and add port, cognac and tomato paste; deglaze and stir thoroughly
- add remaining ingredients; turn heat to low and allow to steep 2 hours; strain

Golden Raisins for Sole: 9.25.09

1 qt golden raisins
1 1/2 cups turbinado sugar
1/2 cup dry mustard
1 tsp turmeric
2 qts water
1 cup amontillado sherry

- combine all ingredients in a heavy saucepan
- bring to a boil and simmer ten minutes, whisking to dissolve dry ingredients
- chill overnight

Milled Fresh Tomatoes for Crabcake: 9.25.09

Pio Angelini's tomatoes as needed, peeled, seeded & chopped
salt as needed
sugar as needed
olive oil as needed
xanthan gum as needed

- 1 day in advance, season tomatoes liberally with salt and conservatively with sugar, tossing to coat; set aside 4 hours
- per 1 qt chopped tomatoes, toss with 3/4 cup olive oil; set aside overnight
- thoroughly pass through food mill and remove to double boiler
- heat to 115 degrees and gently whisk in 1/4 tsp xanthan gum per 1 qt puree
- remove from heat and chill

Salsa Verde for Celery Salad: Crabcake 9.25.09

2 cups firmly packed parsley leaves, minced
3/4 cup packed mix of chervil, tarragon & chives, minced
4 Tbsp rinsed capers, minced
1/4 cup minced shallot
2 Tbsp microplaned lemon zest
4 anchovies, rinsed and minced
1 Tbsp dijon mustard
salt and pepper
2 cups olive oil
2 tbsp red vine winegar

- thoroughly combine all ingredients

Candied Ginger Dressing for Mung Bean Noodles

2 qts water

1 lb candied ginger

4 Tbsp white miso

1 Tbsp candied lemon zest

1 pod star anise

1 Tbsp mustard oil

1/2 tsp xanthan gum

- bring first five ingredients to a simmer and reduce by half

- whisk in mustard oil, then xanthan gum; reduce to sauce consistency; strain and reserve ginger

(makes about 3 1/2 cups)

Mushroom 'Truffles'

4 Tbsp butter

1 clove elephant garlic

2 packed cups clean black trumpet mushrooms

2 packed cups chopped portobello stems

3/4 tsp salt

1 Tbsp tawny port

3 cups juice from roasting mushrooms (you don't have this at home. sorry.)

1 tsp agar agar powder (equals 2 Tbsp flakes)

- secure bonbon molds with rubber bands and set in salt so that they are level

- in large saucepan sweat garlic in butter over low heat until very fragrant

- add portobello stems and 1/2 tsp salt; cover and sweat until portobellos are soft - about 8 minutes

- add black trumpet mushrooms and 1/2 tsp salt and continue to cook 8 more minutes

- add port and cook 1 minute

- add mushroom juice and simmer 5 minutes

- strain mushrooms and reserve liquid (2 1/2 cups)

- in a small saucepan bring reserved liquid and agar agar to a simmer, whisking often

- continue to simmer until reduced by 1/4 cup

- while still hot, puree this liquid with mushroom mixture in blender completely

- transfer to sauce funnel and fill bonbon molds; reserve extra liquid - it can be reheated to make a second batch

- chill completely and remove from molds

Chanterelles al Greco

5 lbs chanterelles

2 cups olive oil

1 large onion, sliced

5 tsp coriander seeds

1 bouquet garni

salt & pepper to taste

2 cups white wine

juice of 4 lemons

water as needed

- clean and trim the chanterelles as necessary; set aside

- in a large saucepan sweat the onion and coriander seeds in the olive oil over medium low heat until onions have softened

- add chanterelles and season with salt and pepper

- add remaining ingredients, adding water, if necessary, just enough to cover

- bring to a full boil, cover and remove from heat

- allow to cool at room temperature, stirring occasionally

- refrigerate overnight before serving

Crazy Good August in New England Pancakes

Despite the fact that my wife made and froze pancakes yesterday (I didn't know, I swear) and despite the fact that my kids had already eaten breakfast, I was determined to bang out a pancake recipe this morning, which was a challenge to do between loads of laundry, picking up the house and heading over to Karl's Sausage Kitchen in Saugus for obscene amounts of meat. I got smoked bratwursts, beef and tomato sausages, pork sausages, boiled ham, pepper salami, andouille, veal loaf, some other stuff, gummy letters, and German potato salad which I gave to the babysitter. But I digress. Like I said I was determined to come up with the ultimate pancake, to win the title of Ultimate Pancake Cooking Guy or Gal, a position previously held by my father, and probably by yours, too, but I did, and now I am He (I don't mean to say that I am my father - that would be weird). We had these peaches and blueberries from our farm share, and they were begging to be eaten, so who was I to deny them, right?

I love yogurt in pancakes, don't you? I have to apologize in advance to Stonyfield Farm: I only know how to make the trademark logo thingy on my Mac.

Peach & Blueberry Pancakes

(makes 8)

2 eggs

1 cup Stonyfield Farm peach yogurt smoothie

2 Tbsp melted butter

2/3 cup blueberries

2 peaches, peeled and diced

2/3 cup flour

1/2 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp cinnamon (yay to cinnamon and peaches together)

2 pinches salt

pan spray as necessary

- whisk together eggs, peach yogurt smoothie and butter and set aside

- combine fruit with dry ingredients in a separate bowl

- gently fold fruit/dry ingredient mixture into egg mixture

- heat a nonstick skillet (or 2) over medium heat and coat with pan spray

- using a 2 ounce ladle, pour pancake batter into pan

- cook about 3 minutes per side, then eat them

Not Secret Butter for Steak Applications

1/4 lb unsalted butter at room temperature

1 Tbsp ultra-reduced beef stock

1 Tbsp Heinz chili sauce

1/2 tsp worcestershire sauce

dash Tabasco

1 tsp minced shallot

1 tsp minced parsley

1/4 tsp black pepper

- combine all thoroughly by preferred method

Dang!

Scrambled Kirkland Fake Eggs with Yancey's Fancy Buffalo Wing Flavored Cheddar & Applegate Farms Hot Soppressata - Simply Ridiculous

seriously - the best I could come up with for lunch yesterday: sauteed hot dogs, celery and mushrooms

Soyrizo™ for that Pesky Pescatarian or Postmodern NeoHippie

Once upon a time I moved with head held high amongst its ranks, that subset of omnivore that for some inexplicable reason insists on referring to itself as vegetarian, but when confronted, admits that fish would be just fine, thanks. Even preferable. But in the absence of seafood, we'll take just about anything your R&D people can drum up, just as long as it bears a striking resemblance to the meat we've cast aside. Yes, I was a pescatarian for a spell. I am cured, now, but alas, my wife is not, so we have some dinner rules on Otis Street. Anyway my friend, Robert, dropped off some cod he caught yesterday, and I immediately and correctly thought spicy sausage. I mean, who wouldn't, right? Of course, in this house there will be no andouille or chorizo - at least not shared, so what's a guy to do? Then I remembered Soyrizo™ and I thought I'd give it a go. I also learned how to make the little trademark thingy on Blogger™ today, so I needed a branded product to showcase my progress.

For those of you familiar with the not-so-nuanced differences between Spanish and Mexican chorizo, Soyrizo™ is Mexican-style. For those of you unfamiliar with said differences, Soyrizo™ is still Mexican-style. At the market I set out thinking Basque and shopping accordingly, but after trying the Soyrizo™ I went with more of a Franco-New World fusion and something like a Mexican "chili con carne sin carne." (™pending) This I served with Robert's really great cod and a simple avocado sauce, but really tripped out actual vegetarians/vegans could simply leave out those last two flourishes and enjoy the Soyrizo™ stew on its own.

Cod, Chili con Carne sin Carne & Avocado

CcCsC

Soyrizo™

1 tube Soyrizo™

- prepare the Soyrizo™ as per directions on the package, which means cook it as you would ground beef in a non-stick skillet, chopping it up as it browns with some sort of utensil; set aside

Fennel

1/4 cup olive oil

1 bulb fennel, sliced into short matchsticks

4 leeks, white and light green only, cut into 1/4" rings

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 tsp sea salt

2 Tbsp brine from kalamata olives

1 cup water

- heat a heavy saucepan over high heat and add olive oil, fennel, leeks, garlic and salt

- while stirring often, brown slightly; add brine

- reduce until brine has disappeared, stirring often, then add water

- cook until fennel has softened - about 12 minutes; strain and set aside

Tomatoes

3 very large tomatoes

3 cloves garlic, sliced thin

1/2 cup olive oil

1 tsp sweet smoked paprika

1/2 tsp sea salt

fresh ground pepper as desired

reserved fennel/leek mixture

reserved Soyrizo™

2 Tbsp minced cilantro

- blanch, peel and seed tomatoes by the shoemaker method (slice in half across the equator and squeeze out and reserve the seeds and guts)

- cut tomatoes into large dice; strain seeds and guts and add resulting pulp and juice to tomatoes

- in a large, heavy saucepan, lightly brown garlic in olive oil, then immediately add tomatoes to halt browning process

- add remaining ingredients, turn heat to as low as possible and cover

- cook, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes; stir in cilantro and serve

Avocado Sauce

1 avocado, skinned and rough chopped

3/4 cup water

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 Tbsp cream cheese

1 Tbsp minced cilantro

- puree in blender

1/2 tsp salt

Cod

4 portions skinless cod fillets

- cook cod, serve over CcCsS and nappe with avocado sauce

This One's for Sandra

This may not look like much, but it's got a great sense of humor. Local cheeses, eggplant and, miraculously, tomatoes from our farm share coupled with herbs from our garden and topped with cheesy olive crumbs make for an easy and tasty vegetarian entree for two.

Bouvard et Pécuchet's Pavé aux Legumes d'Été.

1 eggplant, peeled and sliced vertically 1/4"
olive oil, salt and pepper as needed
2 large tomatoes, sliced 1/4"
1 ounce fresh goat cheese, crumbled
1 ounce smoked mozzarella, small pieces
2 Tbsp mixed herb flowers (fennel, basil, oregano)
3 ounces fresh mozzarella, sliced thin
2 Tbsp olive oil
3 slices whole wheat bread
1/4 cup grated grana padano
1/4 cup pitted kalamata olives
1 Tbsp chopped herbs (from the flowers)

- brush the eggplant slices liberally with olive oil and season with salt and pepper
- in a nonstick, pan saute the eggplant until browned slightly and just softened - about 2 minutes per side; remove to paper towels
- season tomato slices with salt and pepper
- in a loaf pan or terrine mold, alternate layers of eggplant and tomato, dividing goat cheese, smoked mozzarella and herb flowers between each layer
- in a food processor, pulse the olive oil, bread, grana, olives and herbs; top your new creation with this crumb mixture
- bake at 375 for about 25 minutes, uncovered, or until top is not quite as brown as the one in the picture above.

If your tomatoes aren't money, don't bother making this. Also, if you don't like eggplant or goat cheese, get over it and make it anyway, as long as those tomatoes are money.

Mock Peanut Sauce

It's been about a year since our older son was diagnosed with peanut and tree nut allergies - a diagnosis we question, but we are not so ill advised that we would really put it to the test. Yet. And it hasn't been all that challenging; I mean, you can swing a dead cat all you want and you'll never hit a school that allows peanuts anymore. But one thing he really misses is Asian peanut sauce, whether as a dressing for noodles or a dip for chicken satay. So this one's for you, Owen.

4 Tbsp sunflower seed butter (easier to find than you think)

2 Tbsp soy sauce

2 Tbsp mirin

2 Tbsp sesame oil

2 Tbsp lime juice

1 Tbsp maple syrup

1 tsp sriracha (or less)

1 Tbsp minced cilantro

1 tsp microplaned ginger

- puree thoroughly in a blender

New Sashimi 8.14.09

So here's the culmination of the last 3 posts. In the foreground you have hiramasa slices dressed with sea salt and olive oil, separated by thin slices of lemon and topped with herb and garlic infused milk foam. In the rear and out of focus are the caramelized onion custard and elephant garlic chips, which turned out fantastic. And in between the two is a dab of the mustard emulsion, which also wound up pretty darn tasty. Each element is acceptably yummy on its own, but the combination, the perfect forkful if you will, is the way to go. IMHO.

Spicy Mustard Emulsion for Sashimi (or Ham & Cheese Sandwiches)

This would make a tasty, spicy everyday mustard, as well.

1/2 cup white wine

1 Tbsp honey

2 tsp salt

1 tsp coriander seed

1 tsp horseradish powder

1/2 tsp sichuan peppercorns

1 pod star anise

3 eggs, poached (or nuked together for 1 minute)

1 1/4 cups grapeseed oil

1 cup mustard oil (Laxmi brand)

- reduce the first seven ingredients together over medium heat to 3 Tbsp - about 6 minutes in a small saucepan; strain

- in a blender puree eggs and wine reduction

- with the motor running, drizzle in grapeseed oil

- repeat process with 1/2 the mustard oil

- remove to a mixing bowl and whisk in remaining mustard oil

- use sparingly

Chips 'n' Dip

Good for you for making extra caramelized onions the other day. Nice work. Now you can go to the trouble of making this moderately involved, glorified onion dip. And while you're at it you can make the chips, too. Out of garlic. But make sure to use elephant garlic; I forgot to order elephant garlic last night, so I made a batch with regular garlic, and right now I can't drink my Diet Dew fast enough. Yuck.

Caramelized Onion Pot de Creme

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

1/2 cup caramelized onions

1 Tbsp minced dill

1 tsp salt

1/4 cup caramelized onion juice

1/4 cup creme fraiche

2 whole eggs

4 egg yolks

- combine cream, onions, dill and salt over low to medium heat; coo 10 minutes

- strain through sieve, pushing to extract as much flavor as possible from the solid ingredients

- whisk in onion juice, creme fraiche and eggs; strain again

- divide between 12 small ramekins, 1 ounce in each

- bake covered in a water bath at 250 for 35 minutes, or until just set.

Elephant Garlic Chips

desired quantity of elephant garlic sliced 1 mm on Ted's truffle slicer

simmering water

warm clarified butter as needed

salt as needed

- pour simmering water over garlic slices and allow to cool to room temperature

- pat dry and gently toss garlic chips with butter to coat

- lightly salt and bake between two silpats at 250 until light brown and crispy - about 20 minutes

- store at room temperature

Mediterranean Bubbles

Rule #1 - if using something like this, do not mention it, but rather, be discreet. For example, you might call it "garlic & herbs."

3 cups 2% milk

1 cup chopped mixed herbs such as chervil, parsley, and chives

1 bulb garlic, cloves smashed and peeled

1 1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp soy lecithin

1/2 tsp demerara sugar

- over low heat bring milk, herbs, garlic and salt to a slight simmer

- cook, stirring often to keep the heat down, for about 10 minutes, or until garlic softens

- strain and return to pan; whisk in lecithin and sugar until fully dissolved; cool completely and strain once more

- foam as you would for cappuccino (with the steamer) for a dense hot foam, or with an immersion blender for cold airy results

PS, an afterthought: I would add a few sprigs rosemary to the steeping herbs to serve with a peppered lamb carpaccio, but I'm serving the above recipe with hiramasa sashimi, elephant garlic chips and caramelized onion custard.

By Request... 2 Caesar Dressings

I get email recipe requests all the time, which is one reason I now post recipes here - as a preemptive measure. So today I was asked for our caesar salad dressing recipe, and I realized that 1) it's not posted, and 2) it's really hard to scale down. But I thought I'd give it a shot. The first of the recipes below is just that - my condensed version of the G23 dressing. The second is one I use at home, or close to it, I think. Good luck.

Grill 23's Caesar Dressing

2 egg yolks

2 Tbsp dijon mustard

2 tsp red wine vinegar

juice of 1 lemon

1/2 tsp worcestershire sauce

2 shakes Tabasco

1/2 cup grated parmigiano reggiano

1 Tbsp minced garlic

2 tsp anchovy paste

1 1/4 cups canola oil

1 cup olive oil

salt & pepper to taste

- in a countertop mixer, thoroughly combine all ingredients except for oils

- with machine running on medium-high speed, slowly drizzle in oils to emulsify

- season to taste

My Other Caesar Dressing

1 egg, poached for 2 minutes

12 anchovy fillets

1/4 cup grated parmigiano reggiano

2 cloves garlic

1/4 tsp salt

1/4 tsp pepper

juice of 2 lemons

2 tsp red wine vinegar

1/2 cup grapeseed oil

1/2 cup olive oil

- in a blender, thoroughly process all ingredients but oils

- with motor running, slowly drizzle in oils until thickened

The Spanish Word for Étude

A number of years ago I came upon a new, revolutionary product: fata paper, ostensibly invented by some Italian chef, though I'm sure he was only its public face. Fata paper purported to be a transparent, oven-safe plastic that one might use as one would use parchment for meals "en papillote." It seemed pretty cool at the time - I pictured packing meals-to-go in the stuff, doing some nifty table presentation, whatever. Then I discovered Reynolds Oven Bags. My fata bubble had burst. Anyway, last night's dinner was a bit of a spoof on some of today's latest trends, and following are recipes for you to execute a perfectly modern menu at home: native cod, a ragout of corn, shiitakes & smoked shrimp, maiz fundido and cucumber-celery espuma.

It begins with the farm to table movement: garlic scapes, first blanched, then cooked for so long they approach a surprisingly edible state; and some local corn, which along with New Hampshire shiitakes, Maine shrimp and dayboat cod, all qualify for the locavore title. Next we hit Spain, home of the top culinary trendsetters for the past 15 years or so, and the hub of molecular gastronomy (a title which, to me, much better describes microwave cooking). So we have little monoliths of corn (the yellow rectangles in the photo) designed to only finally melt when the dish is fully cooked, which actually works out quite well. And here we use marshmallows, as it is typical to the school of avant garde Spanish cuisine to make use of rather improbable, perhaps inappropriate - or at least marginally appealing - ingredients. Of course we must include one of several types of foam, the one often refered to as "air." I personally prefer "fizz," but that doesn't do justice to such a scholarly study of la cocina. Also, I included one metric measurement for true authenticity. And finally we bake this whole bundle in fata paper, except that I left my expensive roll of fata paper at the office, so I got some Reynolds Oven Bags from Shaw's while Owen had a piano lesson. (I should mention, by the way, that Owen chose corn and shiitakes as ingredients.) I should also mention, that spoof or no, this was an unreasonably delicious dinner.

The Spanish Word for Étude

Ragout

2 Tbsp grapeseed oil

1 Tbsp butter

10 large shiitake caps, cut into brunoise

kernels and milk from 2 ears corn

6 oz smoked Maine shrimp, chopped

2 Tbsp combined thyme and oregano flowers

pinch salt and a few grinds pepper

- sweat shiitakes and corn in oil and butter over low to medium heat 7 minutes

- remove from heat and add shrimp, herb flowers, salt and pepper; chill.

Maiz Fundido

1 Tbsp butter

shaved corn and milk from 1 ear corn (1/2 cup)

1/2 cup thin sliced sweet onion

1/2 tsp sea salt

200 ml prepared dashi

2 marshmallows, diced ( I like Whole Foods or Trader Joe's brands)

1/2 cup 1% milk

3/4 tsp agar agar powder

- sweat corn, onions and salt over low to medium heat until onions soften - about 8 minutes

- add dashi and bring to a simmer

- stir in marshmallows and remove from heat

- puree in blender until smooth (this should amount to about 1 cup)

- return to pan and add milk and agar agar; whisk constantly while simmering 5 minutes and pour into small bread pan lined with plastic wrap; chill until set

Cucumber-Celery Espuma

1 cup diced celery

1/2 cup diced cucumber

1/2 cup water

1/4 tsp soy lecithin granules (available at hippie supermarkets)

- puree celery, cucumber and water; strain

- add soy lecithin and warm this liquid over low to medium heat

- before serving, whip this mixture with an immersion blender

Assembly

4 oven bags

4 garlic scapes, blanched 3 minutes and shocked in ice water

corn, shiitake & smoked shrimp ragout

4 7 ounce portions of cod, seasoned with salt and pepper

maiz fundido

cucumber-celery espuma

- in each oven bag place a garlic scape and fill with the ragout (the scape is a spiral shape)

- top each with a portion of cod and 1/4 of the maiz fundido (which will be a solid block)

- seal bags with the provided enclosures and bake at 350 degrees until the solid maiz fundido rectangle has melted - about 20-25 minutes

- remove from oven and cut bags open; top with dollops of espuma and enjoy!

Really Good Pork Shoulder

I woke up yesterday determined - for reasons I can't even begin to explain in my picky and/or vegetarian household - to slow roast a pork shoulder. A few weeks ago I got this crappy, floor-model damaged grill from a large chain retail store, and it has a unique feature: there is no exposed flame, which might cause some to think its claim to be a grill at all dubious at best. Anyway, basically it consists of a steel basin poised over a set of weak gas burners, and if you toss some wood chips in the basin, it becomes a groovy smoker. So that's what I did. I got a decent pork shoulder at Whole Foods (had to ask for it, wasn't on display) and smothered it with this (after liberally seasoning it with salt and pepper, of course)...

3 Tbsp red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp zinfandel
2 Tbsp soy sauce
4 Tbsp brown sugar
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 Tbsp grain mustard
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp celery seed
3 cloves garlic, minced

- whisk together all ingredients, bring to a simmer in a small saucepan and reduce by half

Then I smoked it away from the heat with the left burner only on in a 3-burner setup, and soaked wood chips (maple and hickory) over that burner, while the pork was on the rack above the grill on the right side. Can you picture that? This task did require that I tend the smoke all throughout the 5 1/2 hours on the grill at about 200 - 210 degrees, adding small handfuls of chips every half hour or so. I also rotated the pork shoulder a few times, as the side nearest the heat would tend to brown more quickly. When the internal temperature reached 170 degrees, I removed the roast to allow it to rest, cranked the heat and threw on a halibut fillet and bluefoot and trumpet royale mushrooms. Good stuff, mate!

Lightly Smoked Tomatoes with Griddled Cheese

Yesterday as my pork shoulder gently roasted over hardwood, I had the opportunity to take advantage of such a tiny fire, so I put together this quickish tomato salad. Since it's the beginning of August a number of our herbs are in bloom, and that's when they're at their best - when the sweet pollen highlights everything you already like about them. You will swear you used sugar, but since you've only had a glass or two of viognier from the Cotes du Ventoux, you're still pretty lucid, and certain you don't remember adding any, which you didn't.

7 small tomatoes, quartered
fresh pollen from 3 fennel flower clusters
2 Tbsp Greek oregano flowers

1 Tbsp African basil flowers
1 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp fine sea salt

fresh ground black pepper
1 tsp basil vinegar

1 Tbsp olive oil

1/2 tsp salt
8 ounces halloumi, cut into small squares

1 Tbsp olive oil

fresh ground black pepper
squeeze of lemon

- gently combine tomatoes and herb flowers/pollen with the Tbsp olive oil, 1/2 tsp salt and fresh ground black pepper
- roast over smoldering hardwood until tomatoes just begin to soften - about 10 minutes; remove to serving bowl

- in a nonstick skillet saute halloumi in olive oil until browned on both sides
- season with pepper and squeeze lemon into pan; add cheese to tomatoes
- whisk together basil vinegar, olive oil and salt; drizzle over tomatoes and cheese

Basil Vinegar

1 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup mixed African basil flowers and leaves
1/2 tsp sea salt - combine all ingredients and bring to a boil

- remove from heat and allow to steep 30 minutes; bottle

Another Perfect Condiment

I came up with this a few years ago by throwing things into the food processor at random. Most likely they were the things closest to me at the time, but it turned out to be mad good. We first creamed it with swiss chard for a ravioli filling. At the moment we smother a sirloin steak with some before wrapping it in bacon. I could see it as a sandwich spread, a pasta sauce, a way to dress up a steak, even as a midnight snack straight out of the Tupperware. We call it "The Condiment."

I should mention that this recipe assumes you have a supply of caramelized onions convenient to you, which you don't, do you? So I'll wait here while you make some. Ready?

The Condiment

2 cups caramelized onions (not 2 cups onions, caramelized)

1 lb gorgonzola, crumbled

1/4 cup pimenton dulce (it also assumes that you have this, which you better)

1 tsp salt

1/4 cup water

- in food processer puree dry ingredients and slowly drizzle in water while motor is running

- there is no step 2, assuming you have figured out what to do with your new condiment and the dishes

Non Award-Winning Clam Chowder

Unlike just about every other chowder in this town, mine has never won an award. Never. Not a one. The recipe has appeared nowhere, and the soup, itself, generates little - no, zero - media buzz. I'm so proud of my happy little chowder. You go, chowder. (I'm sure this is just a coincidence, but I've never been employee of the month.)

Gluten-Free Clam Chowder

1/4 cup small diced onion

1/4 cup small diced celery

1/4 cup small diced leeks

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp dried thyme

1/2 tsp pimenton dulce

- toss all ingredients together and set aside for at least 1 hour

1/4 cup small diced bacon

above chowder "guts"

1 Tbsp oloroso sherry

- render the bacon over low heat, then add the chowder guts; cover and sweat until softened - about 10 minutes

- deglaze with sherry and set aside. Meanwhile:

3 cups clam juice

2 cups heavy cream

1 bay leaf

1 1/2 cups diced red potato

1 cup minced clams

1 1/2 Tbsp kudzu starch dissolved in 3 Tbsp water

- bring clam juice, cream and bay leaf to a simmer; add potatoes and cook until just done

- add clams and stir in kudzu starch slurry; cook until chowder consistency

- stir in above chowder guts, season with fresh black pepper and additional salt if needed

Corny Eggs

This might seem kind of obvious, but I'd never done it before: pureeing corn with eggs for scrambling or making an omelet. We got an afternoon harvest of corn yesterday and when I came home from work I made a simple corn saute. Then this morning I pureed it with egg substitute and made a scramble. Man it was good! I also came up with a new trick - removing the corn from the cobs with a vegetable peeler. I used one with sharp teeth meant for tomatoes and peppers, and, in the words of my lawyer, it "fulfilled its proxy with grace and aplomb." Seriously - he actually said that to me once. I've never forgotten it. Anyway, what that means in this case is that it removed the kernels and their oh so valuable milk in one fell swoop.

2 ears corn, stripped to the cob with a vegetable peeler - discard cobs or make a corn stock

2 Tbsp butter

1 tsp salt

1/3 cup water - or if you actually made a corn stock, use that

1 cup egg substitute

1/4 tsp salt

- saute corn in butter with salt over medium heat for 5 minutes

- add water and lower heat; cook 5 minutes more

- cool and puree in blender with egg substitute and additional salt

- prepare as you would scrambled eggs or an omelet

Curried Cream of Crop

Every Tuesday we pick up our farm share in Melrose, which means a whole lot of scrambling for new ways to use up as much carrot and kohlrabi and possible. (It seems the overwhelming chard and kale days are thankfully in the rear view mirror.) So I made this puree of literally our entire produce drawer; it can be a hot soup, cold soup, a way to gussy up some mashed potatoes, a dip for chips, whatever. Today I'm mixing some with cooked lentils as a salad.

The Recipe...

sweat over low heat in a covered dutch oven or heavy saucepan:

3 new onions, sliced thin

1/4 cup olive oil

1 Tbsp curry powder (I like Sun Brand)

1 Tbsp salt

until soft and very fragrant, then add:

4 1/2 cups medium diced carrots

4 cups medium diced kohlrabi

1 cup medium diced salad turnips

5 radishes, quartered

and toss to coat; return cover to pan and continue to sweat 15 minutes; add:

5 cups vegetable stock (I'm a fan of Better Than Bouillon)

2 tsp smoked paprika

and simmer over low heat, covered, for 2 hours; cool and puree with:

14 ounces Greek-style yogurt

adjust seasoning with salt if necessary

East Meets West for Breakfast

Lately - and to my utter shock - my son, Owen, has taken a serious interest in cooking. He'll sneak down into the basement and rifle through my 23-year-old collection of Art Culinaire for bedtime reading. Now if we can just get him to eat all that stuff...

Today he wanted to help me make a special breakfast for his mom, so he hit the pantry: bonito flakes, straw mushrooms, soy sauce, turmeric; the fridge: eggs; and the herb garden: chives. I added konbu, salt, mirin and butter and we came up with this cross between British coddled eggs and Japanese Chawanmushi. (I've always had a thing for egg coddlers - I'd collect them if I could ever remember to maintain a collection.)

5 eggs

1 cup prepared dashi (made w/ the konbu and bonito)

2 tsp soy sauce

2 tsp mirin (use the real thing - like Eden brand)

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 tsp turmeric

7 chives, snipped

6 roasted shiitake caps, small dice (instead of the straw mushrooms)

6 thin pats of butter

- whisk together first 7 ingredients and divide between 6 egg coddlers

- divide diced shiitakes between the six coddlers

- top each with a pat of butter and seal the lids

- cook at a low simmer 18 minutes

(sorry for the fuzzy photo - I need to get the camera to the repair shop)

Unsolicited Frankfurter Ranking with No Accompanying Text

1. Brandt Beef

2. Pearl Kountry Klub

3. Old Neighborhood

Compound Butter for Blistered Vegetables - New Shrimp Dish 7.31.09

At the Grill we quickly saute a handful of gorgeous toybox cherry tomatoes and blanched green beans in olive oil with sea salt, then toss them with a dollop of this butter.

3/4 cup olive oil

3 bulbs garlic, cloves removed peeled and smashed

1 Tbsp salt

1 lb Plugra, large dice

3/4 cup picked marjoram leaves

- over high heat, quickly heat the garlic in the olive oil in a small saucepan

- when garlic begins to brown, lower heat to low; cook 10 minutes

- remove from heat and add butter

- when closer to room temperature, add marjoram and puree in food processor

- as this mixture cools, stir occasionally to distribute marjoram evenly throughout

One Perfect Condiment

Full Disclosure: this is not my recipe. But this is a perfect recipe, and as such, needs to be shared. This is my mother's recipe, and it's so good I served it at the Beard House as the true star of my cheese course, just this and fleur de maquis. And that is how I recommend it - with a creamy cheese such as the aforementioned herb smothered Corsican sheep's cheese, or a triple creme like Pierre Robert. On a triscuit.

Sweet & Sour Red Pepper Jam

12 large red peppers

1 Tbsp salt

1 1/2 lbs sugar

2 cups cider vinegar

1/2 lemon

- seed peppers and grind; toss with salt. Set aside 4 hours

- rinse pepper pulp in cold water; dry as best as possible

- combine pepper puld, sugar, vinegar and lemon in a heavy, nonreactive saucepan over medium heat

- bring to a simmer, lower heat and stir frequently until thickened - about 20 minutes

(if canning, this makes 6 each, 6 ounce jars)

Last Night - 3 More Pics

Next come scallops wrapped in La Quercia speck (smoked prosciutto) with zucchini pancakes (recipe two days ago), creamed corn (recipe to come) and Otis Street Steak Sauce (March).

Then: Sonoran shrimp in a corn puree (recipe to come) with blistered heirloom cherry tomatoes and green beans tossed with a mix of olive oil, butter, toasted garlic and fresh oregano. This is topped with dollops of celery fizz (1/2 tsp soy lecithin, 1 cup celery juice. dash sea salt, whipped up in an immersion blender).

Finally we have local striped bass in a yellow tomato gazpacho (March: golden gazpacho vinaigrette, not a March recipe, but a March entry) with a grilled avocado topped with yesterday's recipe for lobster salad, and those little globes are last night's recipe for pickled grapes.

Last Night @ the G23 - 3 Pics

Here are some shots from last night. As I haven't learned how to do actual captions, I'll provide color commentary here. The duo of crispy fried things are goat cheese croquettes sitting on our Spanishy Tomato Stew (recipe somewhere below). The cheese is Rawson Brook Chevre from western MA, and I have not found its equal. I've been using it since 1995, and I'm proud to say that we're their biggest customer.

The single crispy fried thing is a crabcake. Accompanying it is a grilled, peeled Anaheim chile stuffed with a crabmeat mixture (recipe is under June). The sauce is a June entry as well (Another Tomato Sauce...). The secret to our crabcakes is their lack of stuff. Here's a quick recipe: take Maine crabmeat and gently toss with melted butter and a touch of Old Bay seasoning. Then you'll have to bread it, but this way the filler is on the outside. You don't have to eat the breading if you don't want - it comes off.

Next comes sashimi/tartare. I am generally loathe to serve raw fish (or cooked tuna) in an Asian style preparation, so this is sliced hiramasa (from CleanFish) dressed with olive oil and caraway brown butter powder (May recipe) and bigeye tuna in a gribiche-like sauce (also May), served with a spicy beet-mustard concoction (you guessed it, May) and tzatziki mousse (gotcha, March). The long things are caraway grissini.

Bread 'n' Butter Pickled Grapes

You're not sure what to expect; heck, neither was I, but you'll love 'em. Initially I planned to peel the grapes - well, I wouldn't have been the one to do the actual peeling, but instead a potentially sad and tortured garde manger cook - until I realized that G23 is no place for peeled grapes. No place at all.

8 cups cider vinegar

3 cups sugar

3/4 cups salt

2 Tbsp mustard seeds

1 Tbsp celery seed

2 tsp mixed peppercorns

1 tsp allspice berries

4 cloves

1 vanilla bean, scraped, pod and seeds

1 pod star anise

1 bay leaf

10 lbs seedless red grapes

- bring all ingredients to a simmer, stirring gently until mixture is clear

- remove from heat and cool at least 12 hours before use

Lobster Salad

I'm serving this with striped bass and pickled grapes over a golden gazpacho. I just came up with the dressing a few minutes ago from things I noticed we weren't using at the moment. Tomorrow's inventory day, and it feels good not to have unused food around, hence the use of orange flower water and Lyle's Golden Syrup. I'm really happy with how it turned out.

Guts

2 lbs lobster meat, small to medium dice

4 shallots, sliced into thin rings

3 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2" batons

4 sprigs tarragon, minced

1 Tbsp african basil flowers

2 tsp salt

Dressing

2 tsp orange flower water

2 tsp Lyle's Golden Syrup

2 tsp rice vinegar

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp pepper

1 cup plain whipped cream, soft peaks

- whisk first 5 ingredients

- fold in whipped cream

- gently toss with above lobster

- combine salad components and toss with dressing

Warm Cucumber Sauce

Tomorrow this will sauce a salmon fillet, smoked salmon & horseradish gnocchi and buttered pumpernickel crumbs. It would also make an interesting soup, perhaps garnished with some cold- smoked salmon roe. All of the flavors - the onion, cucumber, dill, white pepper, butter and lemon are subtle, but entirely familiar. Because you strain the soup through the dill, there are no green specks at all; you're simply left with a hint of its scent. This would be a fun guess-what's-in-it candidate.

2 large spanish onions, sliced thin

1/4 lb butter

3 Tbsp plus 1 tsp salt

6 english cucumbers, peeled and rough chopped

1/4 cup lemon juice

2 qts water

1/2 tsp white pepper

1 bunch dill, rough chopped

- sweat the onions in the butter with the salt over low heat until softened, stirring often and being careful not to brown

- add the cucumber and toss to coat; continue to sweat 5 minutes

- add the lemon juice and cook 2 minutes

- add the water and pepper, bring to boil and simmer 15 minutes

- remove to blender and puree thoroughly

- put chopped dill in mesh chinois; strain cucumber puree through chinois, pressing on the dill with a spoon or ladle for maximum extraction

Summer Sandwich for Those Suffering from the Vegetarian Affliction

I made this sandwich yesterday for my wife, and she claimed that is was the best sandwich she'd ever had. Now, since she doesn't eat meat it can't possibly qualify as the best sandwich ever, but for herbivores I guess it's pretty nifty.

Begin with multigrain bread from the Biscuit bakery in Somerville. Toast each slice and spread with Goya Sofrito or some other tomato based sauce. If you don't make your own, I recommend Sauces 'n Love varieties, also from Somerville. Slice eggplant and dredge in Wondra flour. Saute in olive oil over medium-high heat on one side until browned. Top with grated grana or other hard cheese and flip. Saute on this side until the cheese is browned. Remove to paper towels. Stack the fried eggplant, appenzeller slices and a big honkin' pile of basil leaves on your bread. Top it with the other slice and wrap it up until lunchtime.

What to Do with All That Zucchini

I came in today determined to find a use for zucchini. My farmer accidentally shipped me the wrong size (not baby), and a lot of it, so I really had no choice. Also, I suspect that our farm share at home will be zucchini-heavy for a little while, and this will be a good way - hopefully - for E. to get the kids to eat it. These little pancakes ended up with some South Asian influences in the cumin and turmeric, and while I wasn't expecting to go in that direction, I like how it all turned out. I plan to serve them with turmeric scented creamed corn, a South Asian influenced bbq-like sauce, and hand harvested scallops wrapped in speck. I'll probably work some cilantro in there, too, but Friday's two days away, so no need to worry about that now.

Shrimp & Zucchini Pancakes

Batter

1 1/4 cups buttermilk
2 eggs
1 Tbsp olive oil or melted butter
2/3 cup flour
2/3 cup fine cornmeal
1 Tbsp brown sugar
2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black cumin
1 scant tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp baking powder

- whisk together buttermilk, eggs and oil
- stir in remaining ingredients and set aside

The Pancake Guts

1/2 lb zucchini, small dice
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup diced cooked shrimp
4 large leaves basil, chiffonade
1 bunch scallions, bottom third only, sliced thin

- toss zucchini with garlic, oil and salt and roast in the oven at 350 for 15 minutes
- combine with remaining ingredients and fold into above pancake batter
- cook pancakes about 2 minutes per side over low to medium heat, or use your favorite pancake cooking style. Everybody has one

When Life Hands You Cucumbers...

Somehow 4 minutes of sunshine in June means nothing but cucumbers from our farm share, so we have a bunch. Determined as I was to enlighten my children, I was equally determined not to spend any additional money, as it will continue to be tight until you buy our 2004 KIA Sorento collecting dust in our garage. So this recipe is what I could do with what I had laying around, plus cucumbers. It is obviously quite like tzatziki, but not exactly, so we'll call it Tzatzikish.



Tzatzikish (Tonight with smoked pork chops from Karl's)

about 2 lbs pickling cucumbers, medium dice (5 cups)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup 2% Greek style yogurt
1 1/4 cups crumbled feta
4 jalapenos, fillets only, deribbed
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp sliced chives
1 Tbsp mint chiffonade
2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp white pepper

- in food processor, thoroughly mince cucumber
- remove and press out as much liquid as possible from minced cucumber (in a chinois or cheesecloth)
- fold garlic and yogurt into cucumber
- also in food processor (don't bother rinsing the bowl), puree feta, jalapeno fillets and lemon juice
- fold feta mixture into cucumber mixture
- add remaining ingredients and mix well. Allow flavors to develop for at least an hour before serving

Today's Cooking School

In an attempt to stave off my kids' boredom today, we're going to take a stab at cooking lessons (I somehow broke a Lego dart gun this morning rendering our battles decidedly one-sided). I realize that I can't possibly compare to Mario or Sonic or Spongebob, but maybe I can beat room cleaning or folding laundry. Recipes will follow.

Artichoke Tapenade Fried Sandwich Filling

2 lbs artichoke bottoms, braised with aromatics
1 qt pitted meski (or other green) olives
1/2 cup oregano leaves
5 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp capers
1 1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp white pepper
1/3 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 lb mascarpone

- combine all but mascarpone in food processor and pulse to mince
- remove and fold mascarpone into tapenade mixture; chill before use

Ammendment to the Ammendment

Okay, okay I've sorted some of this out. Don't bother baking the crab rings at all. Just chill the mixture and pack into rings to serve if you want it to look all fancy. But what about the streusel, you ask. Good point, but you weren't thinking. You can simply bake the streusel by itself in a single layer on a sheet pan, then spoon it on ex post facto.

Also, I scrapped the flatbread idea and revisited the sandwich: simple white bread spread with an artichoke tapenade, topped with another slice of white bread, quartered, then breaded and deep fried. And the sauce is an emulsion of blanched spinach, poached eggs, dijon mustard, garlic and grapeseed oil. So you see, this whole endeavor here, this labor of love, is really just a take on the old school crab, spinach and artichoke dip available at fern bars everywhere. Does anyone even say "fern bars" anymore?

Ammendment to the Post Below

After several minutes of experimentation and deep soul searching, I have changed my mind. I would recommend that you bake the crab thingies with the streusel on top, then chill and serve them cold. Also, I now plan to serve them with crispy flatbread spread with a relish? of grilled artichoke, Moroccan green olive, braised fennel, lemon and a touch of capers. That recipe will follow, which, in this world, means it will appear somewhere above the original.

Warm Crab Salad with Old Bay Streusel

Crab

2 lb maine crabmeat

2 bunches scallions, white and light green only, sliced thin

4 inches celery, sliced thin

½ tsp lemon zest

½ tsp salt

Old Bay Streusel

1/3 cup flour

3 Tbsp cornmeal

1 Tbsp brown sugar

1 Tbsp Old Bay seasoning

3 Tbsp partially softened butter

- combine dry ingredients and cut in butter to form crumbs

Cream Sauce and Assembly

2 Tbsp butter

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 Tbsp flour

½ tsp dry mustard

½ tsp Old Bay seasoning

¼ tsp cayenne

¼ cup white wine

15 drops worcestershire

2 cups milk

½ lb cream cheese

salt and white pepper to taste

- lightly brown the garlic in the butter, then add flour and dry spices

- whisk constantly 1 minute, then add wine and worcestershire

- whisk until thickened, then add milk, ½ cup at a time, whisking between each addition until thickened

- stir in cream cheese until melted, then season to taste

- strain, fold into above crabmeat mixture and fill 16 2 inch by 2 inch rings

- refrigerate until chilled and top each with 1/8 of above streusel mixture

- bake at 350 degrees for 10 minutes; serve with artichoke sandwiches (recipe to follow)

Basil Oil

Since the speck-cucumber relish called for basil oil, here is a recipe:

1# basil, leaves only

1 tsp salt

3 cups grapeseed oil

- blanch basil for no more than 5 seconds and remove to ice water; handle basil as little as possible

- puree with salt in blender, beginning with as little oil as necessary to puree

- gradually incorporate remaining oil

- strain through cloth, allow sediment to settle and decant

Speck & Cucumber Relish

Speck is smoked prosciutto, and ours - from La Quercia in Iowa - is delicious. It has a gentle apple wood smoke to it, while Italian hams can sometimes seem a bit scorched. Currently we serve this relish with scallops wrapped in thin slices of speck, the ambrosia melon sauce from yesterday's post, and sea beans (glasswort, samphire, pousse-pieds) tossed with a bit o' lemon.

1 1/2 cups brunoise of speck, deep-fried.
1 cup brunoise of cucumber
1 tsp lime zest
10 basil leaves, 1/2" chiffonade
2 pinches salt
1 Tbsp basil oil

- combine all and set aside at least 1 hour before using

For a Soft Shell Crab Appetizer: Stonefruit Salad & Red Curry Aioli

Stonefruit Salad

6 mariposa plums, pitted
5 flavortop nectarines
15 leaves mint, chiffonade
1/2 tsp salt

2 oz sake
2 tsp sugar
1 tsp szechuan peppercorns
1 point of pod star anise

- slice plums into 12 wedges each
- peel nectarines and reserve peelings for later use aside; cut flesh into medium dice
- toss with mint and salt; set aside

- combine sake, sugar, peppercorns and star anise in small saucepan over medium heat
- reduce to 1 oz and allow to cool
- strain and toss fruits with this mixture


Red Curry Aioli

2 Tbsp brown sugar
1 Tbsp red curry paste
1 Tbsp butter
1 can (400ml) coconut milk
reserved peelings from nectarines (above)

8 eggs, poached
3 Tbsp rice vinegar
1 tsp salt
3 cups grapeseed oil

- combine sugar, curry paste and butter in small saucepan over medium heat
- stir 1 minute and add coconut milk and peelings
- lower heat to low and cook 15 minutes; set aside
- meanwhile combine eggs, vinegar and salt in blender - puree
- with motor running drizzle in reserved coconut milk mixture
- still with motor runningm drizzle in grapeseed oil
- cool before use